Welcome to our July midmonth update! 

It was a special month for Bennetts, as we received a unique invitation to participate in the 2^nd Gems of Yunnan competition in China. Supported by the Alliance of Coffee Excellence, this pilot Cup of Excellence (COE) program brought together coffee professionals from around the globe, showcasing the quality, innovation, and ambition emerging from China’s coffee growing heartland. It presented a rare opportunity to gain firsthand insight into one of the world’s fastest evolving coffee origins.

Representing Bennetts, our Quality Control Technician, Jason, travelled to Yunnan where he joined the international jury panel for the 2026 Gems of Yunnan.

THE RISE OF COFFEE IN YUNNAN

Located in southwestern China and bordering Myanmar, Laos and Vietnam, Yunnan produces more than 98% of China’s coffee. While coffee has been cultivated in the region for more than a century, the industry was, for much of its history, focused on commercial grade production.

Map of Yunnan Province, China

Growth accelerated through the 1990’s and 2000’s, driven by international demand and the introduction of high yielding varieties such as Catimor. However, fragmented smallholder farming, rudimentary processing methods, and limited quality incentives left many producers vulnerable to volatile coffee prices. In 2011, the industry witnessed a significant downturn, as many producers switched crop or abandoned their coffee cultivation altogether.

That downturn became a turning point. Producers, processors, researchers, and government agencies shifted their focus from volume to quality, traceability, and value creation. Government investments and incentives flowed into specialty coffee estates, centralised processing facilities, and improved varieties. The emergence of cafes and domestic roasters has also helped elevate Yunnan’s quality and reputation. Industry stakeholders travelled to high altitude production areas to promote fully ripe cherry picking and refine fermentation and processing techniques. The concept of “Specialty coffee” took root and accelerated over the past decade. By 2025, more than 40% of the province’s production were specialty grade, with some regions exceeding 70%.

Yunnan is now increasingly recognised by roasters and buyers around the world for its specialty coffee production, and the Gems of Yunnan green coffee competition highlights just how far the region has progressed.

2026 GEMS OF YUNNAN

The judging week began with industry presentations from regional coffee leaders, government representatives, and coffee experts, followed by calibration sessions and blind cupping rounds. These sessions brought together judges from diverse industry backgrounds, sparking robust discussions around quality evaluation and scoring.

Over the following days, the international jury, using the COE scoring system, assessed coffee across washed, honey, natural and experimental categories through multiple rounds of cupping. As coffees advanced through the competition, they were re-evaluated to ensure consistency and accuracy throughout the process.

Jason at one of the many ‘Gems of Yunnan’ cuppings

For Jason, one of the most interesting aspects was to experience the COE scoring framework firsthand. The system requires judges to assess coffee across a detailed range of sensory attributes. Even a small scoring difference can have a significant impact on final rankings.

“The role felt surprisingly familiar”, Jason reflected. “At its core, it was still about identifying quality in the cup. What stood out was seeing the broad range of coffees being produced in Yunnan, and the industry’s determination to continue improving”.

THE FINAL AUCTION

The week culminated in a Cup of Excellence auction where the highest scoring coffees were ranked and offered to buyers. The final table featured seven washed, one honey, and two naturals coffee, each available in 45kg lots. While the international jury completed final evaluations, prospective buyers cupped the coffees nearby before taking part in the live auction.

Unlike many traditional coffee auctions, biding took place on site using paddles, with bid increments ranging from 50 RMB to 3,000 RMB. The atmosphere, as Jason recalled, was energetic and competitive. Final prices ranged from AUD$193/kg to an impressive AUD$3,010/kg for the winning lot. The results demonstrated the growing confidence in Yunnan specialty coffee.

Jason with the winning producers from Lincang Gengxia Manor Co., Ltd.

The top ranked coffee was a washed Gesha produced by a group of young agricultural graduates from Yunnan University. This highlights the next generation’s role in shaping the coffee industry in China. Another notable producer, Huazhi Yu from Baoshan Longyang District Zuoyuan Coffee, whose coffee placed ninth, is recognised as one of the pioneers to introduce the Gesha variety to the region, share seeds and knowledge with neighbouring farmers.

Jason’s personal highlights from the competition were the coffees that placed 1^st and 8^th – two lots that showcased the diversity, characters, and strong potential emerging from the Yunnan region. The top three coffees all scored above 90 points and received Presidential Awards, placing them among the competition’s most exceptional entries.

BRINGING IT HOME TO MELBOURNE

After Jason returned from China, we were able to share part of the experience with the Melbourne coffee community. Earlier this week, Bennetts partnered with ‘Slurps Up Melbourne’ to host a public cupping, presenting the top 10 lots from the Gems of Yunnan competition, alongside other coffees that Jason gathered from his time in China.

Jason presenting at Slurps Up Melbourne

The event opened with a presentation from Jason about the Yunnan coffee sector, the COE program, and stories of his personal experience as an international jury member. Following this, the cupping inspired active conversations throughout the room, leaving many of the participants impressed by the quality of Yunnan coffee. By the time everyone had voted for their favourites, the cupping bowls were all empty, and the night wrapped up with a fun quiz! We were incredibly honoured and glad to co-host this experience with the Slurps Up team.

‘Gems of Yunnan’ cupping with Slurps Up Melbourne

LOOKING AHEAD

The 2^nd Gems of Yunnan competition provided a unique snapshot of an industry in transition.

While challenges remain, the momentum behind Yunnan’s specialty coffee movement is undeniable. Supported by quality focused producers, innovating processing, government investment, and international initiatives such as Cup of Excellence, the region is rapidly establishing itself as a serious origin on the global specialty coffee map.

For Bennetts, Jason’s participation offered valuable insight into one of coffee’s most exciting emerging origins. We look forward to watching Yunnan’s continued evolution and to seeing how competitions like Cup of Excellence help drive quality, opportunity, and recognition for producers across the region.